Your Hair Is Falling Out Because You're Doing This

When it comes to haircare, the majority use all the same products for their scalp and hair and treat them as one and the same. But this common one-size-fits-all misconception could be the reason that your hair is thinning, shedding, and falling out.

Your scalp and your hair are not the same; one is living skin tissue, and the other is largely made up of dead protein. Understanding the fundamental differences between the two is crucial for achieving truly healthy hair, and it directly impacts how you should—or shouldn't—use products like coconut oil. A "one-size-fits-all" approach to hair care is ineffective because your scalp is a living, breathing organ, while your hair strands are, for the most part, not.

Your scalp is an intricate landscape of skin, hair follicles, sebaceous glands, and a complex microbiome. It's living tissue, with a delicate balance that can be easily disrupted. Just like the skin on the rest of your body, your scalp has pores, produces oil (sebum), and is susceptible to conditions like dryness, oiliness, irritation, and even infections. Hair follicles, the tiny structures from which your hair grows, are embedded within this skin. They are vital for hair production and health. When these follicles are compromised, hair growth can suffer.

In stark contrast, the hair strand itself, once it emerges from the scalp, is largely composed of dead protein, primarily keratin. While the hair shaft's outermost layer, the cuticle, can be damaged or become dry, it lacks the biological processes of the scalp. It doesn't produce its own moisture, nor does it have pores that can become clogged. This fundamental difference means that what benefits the scalp might harm the hair, and vice versa.

To explain this concept better, I'm going to use the much-loved (I love it too) coconut oil as an example.

Coconut oil and fresh coconut halves

Why Your Scalp Says "No" to Coconut Oil:

A great example of this is the extremely trendy use of coconut oil, slathered all over the head from roots to tips. Coconut oil (cold-pressed) is a great oil for any natural beauty enthusiast, but the most critical factor to consider is coconut oil's comedogenic rating. This rating indicates a substance's likelihood of clogging pores. Coconut oil has a comedogenic rating of 4 on a scale of 0 to 5, meaning it is very high and has the potential to clog pores. When applied to the scalp, which is essentially an extension of your skin with its own set of pores, these pores can become clogged, leaving them unable to breathe or pass any of the benefits of topically applied products to the deeper layers of the scalp.

Coconut oil is an occlusive agent, meaning it forms a barrier on the skin's surface. While this can be beneficial on the hair strands, it can trap dirt, dead skin cells, and natural sebum on the scalp, causing buildup. This buildup creates an environment ripe for scalp problems. If you use too much coconut oil, or if you don't wash it out thoroughly, this layer of oil, dirt, and debris can become a stubborn film on your scalp. This blockage can also lead to bacterial or fungal overgrowth, resulting in itchy, red bumps, tenderness, and discomfort on the scalp, and even cause folliculitis (the inflammation or infection of the hair follicles).

When hair follicles are inflamed or infected, their ability to produce healthy hair strands is compromised. Chronic irritation can weaken the follicle, potentially leading to weakened hair growth cycles and increased hair fall. This is a common concern for individuals who regularly use heavy oils on their scalp without proper cleansing.

It's also important to acknowledge individual variation. The likelihood of coconut oil clogging follicles and causing issues varies from person to person. Factors like your scalp type (oily, dry, or sensitive), hair type (fine, coarse, or curly), and the frequency and amount of coconut oil used all play a role. Someone with an oily scalp and fine hair might experience negative effects much faster and more severely than someone with a very dry scalp and coarse hair, though even the latter is not immune to buildup.

Why Your Ends Say "Yes" to Coconut Oil

Now assuming that you have a hair type that can handle heavy oils (read our blog post about finding your hair type), let's pivot to the positive side of coconut oil and its undeniable benefits for the hair shaft, particularly the ends.

Because your hair strands are largely non-living, they're constantly exposed to environmental stressors like heat styling, chemical treatments, and vigourous hairstyles, all of which can damage the hair's outer cuticle layer. This damage leads to dryness, frizz, and split ends.

This is where coconut oil truly shines. Its unique molecular structure, rich in lauric acid, allows it to penetrate the hair shaft more effectively than many other oils. It can help reduce protein loss, which is crucial in maintaining hair strength, and by penetrating the hair, it helps to fill in gaps in the hair shaft, making it smoother and less prone to breakage.

For the ends of your hair, which are the oldest and often the most vulnerable parts, coconut oil acts as an excellent moisturiser and sealant. It helps to lock in moisture, preventing the hair from drying out and becoming brittle. This can significantly reduce the appearance of frizz and make hair feel softer and more manageable. Applying a small amount to your ends can also provide a protective layer, shielding them from environmental damage and helping to prevent the formation of split ends. The result is hair that looks healthier, shinier, and less prone to breakage.

The Smart Way to Use Coconut Oil

The key to harnessing coconut oil's benefits without incurring its drawbacks lies in strategic application and thorough washing.

1. Targeted Application: Reserve coconut oil primarily for the mid-lengths and ends of your hair. This is where its moisturising and protective properties are most needed and where it won't interfere with your scalp's delicate balance.

2. Pre-Shampoo Treatment (with caution): If you wish to use coconut oil as a pre-shampoo treatment for overall hair conditioning, apply it to your hair, avoiding direct and heavy application to the scalp. If it does get on your scalp, ensure it's a very light coating.

3. Thorough Cleansing: This is paramount. If you use coconut oil on any part of your hair, especially if it inadvertently touches your scalp, ensure you wash it out completely. Consider clarifying the scalp periodically to effectively remove any potential buildup from coconut oil or other products. Clarifying shampoos are designed to deep clean the hair and scalp, removing residues that regular shampoos might leave behind.

4. Listen to Your Scalp: Pay attention to how your scalp reacts. If you notice any itching, redness, increased oiliness, or new breakouts, it's a clear sign that coconut oil might be too heavy for your scalp or that you're not washing it out sufficiently.

5. Check Your Hair Type: Always make sure that an oil is suitable for your hair type, and you don't have fine or naturally oily hair, which can become too saturated by a heavy oil like coconut oil.

So there you have it; by recognising the biological distinctions between your scalp and your hair strands, you can start to give them both what they truly need. Your scalp is a living ecosystem that requires gentle, breathable care, while your hair benefits from protective and moisturising agents. By understanding these differences and selecting products for each of them with thought, you can truly nurture both your scalp health and the beauty of your hair, achieving a more holistic and effective hair care regimen.