Switching from Chemical to Natural Hair Dye

I made the switch 10 years ago after using chemical hair dyes for 15 years. My name is Rae, and I am the founder of The Henna Hair Shop. Hopefully, by sharing my experience, I can help some of you too!

I used to dye my hair every 4-6 weeks to cover greys but I was having extreme reactions to any box or salon dyes, and my scalp was red, raw and continuously flaking. It became so itchy all of the time that I became like a crazed animal, vigorously scratching my head non-stop...I couldn't go on!

After much research, I discovered how certain chemicals, like those found in the dyes I had been using, can lead to serious health consequences and the kind of side effects that I was seeing. I stopped using chemical dyes immediately, but I still wanted to cover my greys...I felt lost.

There wasn’t a lot of information about henna, indigo, and natural hair dye back then, so I went down a rabbit hole for several days before my first application until I felt sure that I had some idea what I was doing. But I was nervous; it felt overwhelming and easy to make a mistake. But I want to reassure you that it is not as hard as it seems if you follow the right advice. 

While chemical dyes still remain popular, more people are waking up to the natural alternatives that don’t have consequences. The idea of giving up chemical dye can feel like a big step, especially if you have used it for many years, but you can make the change, and you’ll have a healthier scalp, stronger hair and longer-lasting colour.

How Chemical and Natural Dyes Differ

Permanent chemical dyes work by changing the structure of your hair. They open the cuticle, strip away some of the natural pigment, and deposit synthetic colour inside. This is why the result is often strong and uniform, but it can also leave hair weaker and drier with regular use. 

Henna and indigo do not strip the hair. The natural pigment molecules attach to the outer layer and bond with the keratin protein. The colour builds up over time, and many people find their hair feels thicker and stronger after several applications.

As these plant powders are slightly translucent, they blend with your colour underneath, creating a sort of layering effect, meaning that your natural highlights and lowlights will still show through. The result is a much more natural, multi-dimensional look.

The regrowth lines from chemical hair dyes are harsh and extremely obvious, but with natural herbal dyes, they are much more discreet.

Fading Out Old Dye

You can safely apply all-natural henna over chemically dyed hair, but it's crucial to use only pure, high-quality henna that is free of metallic salts. This is because metallic salts, which are sometimes added to low-quality henna products, can react negatively with the chemicals in your hair, potentially causing damage or unexpected colour results.

Be particularly wary of black henna; if you can dye your hair jet black in one process with it, then that is unusual. Make sure it does not contain paraphenylenediamine (PPD), which is banned in many countries for cosmetic use, or other undisclosed chemical compounds. 

If the henna and plant powders are 100% natural plant material, then you have absolutely nothing to worry about. If the manufacturer does not state that it is or promises exotic shades in record times, then dig a little deeper! This is most likely blended with a chemical component like metallic salts to get a dye release in record time or in an unnatural shade. 

If you are not sure about the quality of the henna or natural hair dye that you have bought, then it is crucial to perform a strand test!

Focus on restoring your hair’s condition. Use gentle, sulphate-free shampoo, avoid strong treatments, and cut back on heavy styling. Natural oils such as jojoba or argan oil can help keep the hair and scalp in good condition as you prepare for the change.

Why a Strand Test Matters

When you first try natural dye, it is best not to jump straight in. Always carry out a strand test. By applying a small amount of your paste to a section of hair, you can see how the colour develops on your base shade. This gives you a preview of the result and lets you adjust the mix before applying it all over.

It also ensures a safe and successful outcome, especially if you are unsure of the quality of the product. Bear in mind that chemically treated hair tends to be more damaged and therefore more porous, so it may absorb more of the colour differently, leading to a brighter shade than expected. A strand test can help you tweak your recipe, and if you wanted it to be darker or less intense, then you could add more indigo to your mix or leave it to develop on your hair for a shorter time. 

Caring for Hair Between Treatments

Henna, indigo and natural hair dyes do not damage the hair, but your results will look better if you support them with a good hair care routine. Moisturise your locks with oils such as argan, jojoba or sweet almond. Try herbal rinses like parsley or rosemary to add shine, and limit heat styling.

Avoid dipping your hair in chlorinated swimming pools and exposing it to prolonged sun exposure. Following these simple steps helps protect any type of hair dye colour and keep it vibrant for longer.

Adjusting Your Expectations

One of the biggest changes is how the colour looks. Chemical dyes give a flat, one-dimensional shade. Natural dyes work with your own base colour, so the outcome may be softer and multi-tonal. Also expect hair to dazzle and shimmer in the sunlight and come alive. Many people come to prefer this natural-looking result, but it is different from chemical dye results.

The move from chemical dye to natural colour is not instant. It takes time, patience, and a willingness to try new methods. If you give your hair care and attention, the reward is stronger strands, a healthier scalp, and colour that comes from plants rather than synthetics.

At The Henna Hair Shop, we support you with pure powders and clear advice at every stage. Start with a strand test, and see how natural colour can work for you.